Restaurant Review: Royal Mail Hotel

Location: 98 Parker St, Dunkeld
Phone: 03 5577 2241
Link: royalmail.com.au
Cuisine: Modern Australian
Overall Impression: 10/10

This was J’s generous 2-year gift to me. It was a trip to my dream restaurant, The Royal Mail Hotel.

There was much to celebrate. We had reached that 2 year milestone, I had just welcomed 2 beautiful new nieces (both born in the same week) to the world and I was starting a new job. The year had come to a conclusion quite abruptly for me. As such, it was also a good time for reflection and contemplation. Staying in the beautiful surrounds of the Royal Mail Hotel could not have been a better option.

view from our room

After a relaxing swim in the pool, J and I both got ready for dinner. It felt slightly strange getting dolled up to walk a mere 50 metres to the restaurant from our room.

We both opted for the menu omnivore ($160 each) with accompanying wines ($115 each). Initially we had thought it might be a good idea to share a bottle but the impenetrable wine list (which was more like a book) got the better of us.

Wine list

Imagine the tax advantages associated with having your own cellar as a wine list in a successful restaurant. Allan Myers is a lucky man.

The restaurant is set up in the most peculiar manner. Every table is set to face the sommelier and his wooden table of wines, an impressive collection of riedel glasses and decanters and wine bottles. It was an amusing sight. It was clearly a deliberate move – perhaps to pay homage to one's love of wine?

pork sandwich

globe artichoke and mayonnaise

chicken crisps

matched with: nv ulysse collin blanc de  blancs

champagne france

It was an incredible start to the meal. All three elements on the plate were superb. Each carefully thought out and perfectly executed. J and I were under Dan Hunter’s spell. We immediately lusted for more. With Hunter's impressive resume (he was the head chef at the two Michelin star restaurant, Mugaritz), we were both excited to see what else was in store.

tomato and prawn, cinnamon basil, daikon ice

matched with: 2010 domaine Tanglore

tavel france

And the dishes continued to deliver.

heirloom carrots, garlic, soy cream, sorrel seeds

matched with: 2009 domaine du belliviere 'l'effraie'

coteaux du loir france

This was an outstanding course. It was difficult to understand the mechanics and the complexity of the dish because you sense that you are not fully contemplating all there is to it. The dish is delicious and tries to be deceptively simple but you cannot help your suspicions. The carrots are what carrots would be in a perfect world. It has the perfect hint of sweetness, tastes intensely natural yet without the impurities you would attach to an average carrot. I apologise for the strange descriptions but it really is one you will have to try for yourself because words simply do not do it justice.

egg yolk and new potatoes, salt cod, fish crackling

matched with: 2007 bannockburn 'srh' chardonnay

geelong vic

The yolk enveloped the potatoes and the deliciously salted fish crackling, creating an explosion of intense delight in my mouth. This was genius. It tasted comforting and wholesome. Every element complemented the next.  

sand flathead, mustard, nori, sugar snap peas

matched with: 2010 crawford river riesling

henty vic
This course was subtle in both texture and flavour. It demonstrated a full appreciation of the delicate allure associated with fresh produce, allowing the ingredients to speak for themselves.

Again and again, the theme of balance in flavour and the importance of different textural elements resounded throughout the courses. As expected, everything was consistently cooked to perfection.

eel and bone marrow, eggplant, pickled vegetables

matched with: 2010 best's 'old clone' pinot noir

grampians vic

*Spoiler alert!*

A good meal at the Royal Mail Hotel wouldn’t be complete with a bit of a challenge to traditional notions. The prominent gleaming brown object is not the eel. Instead, it is the thin, dark and crisp-looking piece on the top!

duck and cucumber, coastal plants, calamari cream

matched with: chateau d'armailhac 5th growth

pauillac france

The coastal plants literally exploded in my mouth, their juices lingered as the duck meat melted and the saltiness of the calamari cream struck a lovely balance. It was a beautiful end to the savoury courses.

Palate cleanser - chamomile

fallen fruit; apple, almond, caramel, chamomile

The desserts were no different. They were impressive at every turn. Did we need three desserts? Probably not, but the joie de vivre of the experience certainly brought out the glutton in us.  

berries and fig leaf, white chocolate and rose

matched with: 2009 marenco 'pineto' brachetto d'acqui

piedmont italy

pistachio, hazelnut, honeycomb, chocolate

matched with: nv sanchez romate cream sherry

jerez spain

And it had come to an end. It was an amazing set of 10 courses, all of which alluring, appetizing, and aesthetically pleasing. The delivery of each course was timed perfectly and the order of the courses was faultless.

The service was impeccable. The waiters came in sets of two, so that both J and I received our courses at the exact same time. Without a word, one of them would invariably disappear into the abyss leaving the other to describe the course we were about to indulge in. At one stage my napkin fell to the ground. The next thing I knew, I was presented with a new one. I had not noticed since it happened in a split of a second but J saw it all happen (he described it as fascinating). Apparently one waiter immediately took the fallen napkin from the ground while another brought me a new one. 

Flawless.

Earl grey chocolate petit fours

What a tremendous start to 2012. You have set the bar inordinately high, Royal Mail Hotel.

Thank you for this indulgent gift, my sweet J.

Restaurant Review: Mings Dim Sum

Location: Level 1, 8 Whiteman St, Southbank
Phone: 03 9292 8888
Link: http://crowncasino.com/mings-dim-sum
Cuisine: Chinese
Overall Impression: 5/10

Standing where Sante stood, Mings Dim Sum is the new kid on the Crown Casino block. Although newly established, it is already starting to attract the Southbank corporate lunchtime crowd. The place has a relaxed ambience, the service is of a good standard and the food certainly meets expectations.

Left: Braised Beef soup served with Shanghainese noodles $12.00
Right: Sweet Almond soup with Almond Glutinous Rice Balls $5.00

Cafe Review: The Forge Pizzeria

Location: 1771 Sturt Street, Ballarat
Phone: 03 5338 4309
Link: theforgepizzeria.com.au
Cuisine: Pizza
Overall Impression: 7/10

Pizzas can be extremely disappointing. We have an abundance of pizzerias and there is such a wide range when it comes to quality and delivery. The average pizza is one that is acceptable - not great but rather enjoyable to eat when you are hungry but not one you would eat if you were not in the hunger zone. Only on very rare occasions do you stumble upon a place that serves pizzas outside the midpoint of that bell curve. Dining at Forge Pizzeria is one of those rare occasions when you find your pizza is about two positive standard deviations from the mean. It was excellent!

Butchers Pizza

Bacon, sausage, shaved ham, salami, mozzarella, tomato, rosemary

Pumpkin Pizza

Pumpkin, spinach, Meredith goats’ cheese, garlic, rosemary, tomato, mozzarella, cracked pepper, topped with a sprinkle of pine nuts

Where the magic happens

We were promptly seated when we arrived by the loveliest waitress I have ever met. Looking at the dense menu, I had trouble choosing what to order and as if sensing my plight, she re-appeared, suggesting the Pumpkin Pizza to me. It was a choice I was incredibly pleased with. Both the pizzas we ended up choosing were delicious. The crust was beautifully thin and the toppings were delicious. The toppings were generous and as a whole, there was a lot more depth in terms of flavour in the pizzas. As far as gourmet pizzas go, these are certainly very good. So, if you’re ever in Ballarat, be sure to pay this place a visit!  

Cafe Review: L'Espresso

Location: 417 Sturt St, Ballarat
Phone: 03 5333 1789
Link: http://www.ballarat.com/lespresso.htm
Cuisine: Modern Australian, Breakfast/Brunch, Coffee
Overall Impression: 7/10

Ballarat is hardly a “foodie” destination but there are certainly a couple of eateries that I have discovered to be consistently gratifying. L’Espresso is one such eatery. The café was bustling when I arrived - there were hungry tourists and locals scurrying about during the lunch hour rush. Sitting in the café, the jazz and blues CDs can be quite distracting as the musically inclined folk browse through the collection. You see, L’Espresso is also a music store, tailored for the peckish crowd that are in need of a jazz CD.

The menu is simple. What I love best about it is the traditional Italian fare they have on offer during lunch. The pasta and risotto are always perfectly cooked and seasoned. What you get is hearty fare that ticks all the right boxes.

Restaurant Review: Indochine

Location: 51 Carrington Rd, Box Hill
Phone: 03 9890 2966
Link: indochinerestaurant.com.au
Cuisine: Vietnamese
Overall Impression: 6/10

My friends know this restaurant as ‘that Vietnamese place with the hot waitress’. I frequent this restaurant to check out the waitress but I stay for the Bun (pronounced ‘boon’).

Pork and Prawn rice paper rolls

Bun with char-grilled lemongrass pork and spring rolls

Bun with char-grilled lemongrass chicken and spring rolls

Bun with char-grilled lemongrass beef

As far as buns go, this place serves the very best I have had in Melbourne. The rice vermicelli tossed in beautifully fresh salad greens and herbs are a perfect summer meal. Their nuoc mam sauce is always well balanced and beautifully flavoured. It is always a treat.

Cafe Review: Half Moon Café

Location: 13 Victoria St, Coburg
Phone: 03 9350 2949
Cuisine: Middle Eastern
Overall Impression: 6/10

Therein lays the best falafels in Melbourne. Hard to believe? Well, it’s true.

In an unassuming little café, you would hardly suspect it but it is certainly a Melbourne gem.

Their  menu is a wonderfully fresh and works a treat.

Cooked to perfection, these Egyptian-style falafels are crisp on the outside and deliciously moist on the inside.

The first thing you notice is how green they are on the inside. No, it’s not some weird chickpea they are using. These falafels are made from fava beans and they are absolutely delicious.

Restaurant Review: Rae's Restaurant

Location: Melba Hwy, Yarra Glen
Phone: 03 9730 0774
Link: balgownieestate.com.au
Cuisine: Modern Australian
Overall Impression: 6.5/10

There is nothing quite like a lazy lunch in the relaxing Yarra Valley surrounds. Whilst being a mere 40 minute drive from the CBD, you feel a million miles away.

Balgownie Estate is one of J’s favourite wineries so visiting Rae’s Restaurant, the restaurant attached to the winery made sense. The locally sourced produce takes the dining experience to greater heights as these fresh ingredients are skilfully prepared.

Unfortunately, all this good work is undone by bad service. The service is irrefutably impersonal. We were treated like cattle, ushered in and out the door without being acknowledged whatsoever. It was clear that the wait staff were trying not to pay attention. It was far from non-intrusive. We were almost non-existent. The service that an older waiter delivered to us can only be described as service with contempt. After he put J’s bread down, he reached over J to put my bread down. It was incredibly rude.  

Soup of the day $15

with grilled sour dough

Grilled sour dough bruschetta $18

with whipped Persian feta, double smoked leg ham and tomato relish

Slow cooked Yarra Valley salmon $22

with capers, white anchovies sauce gribiche

Grilled free range spring chicken $32

with sage and onion stuffing, herbed cous cous and rocket pesto

Home made gnocchi $25

Tossed in tomato coulis with estate grown green vegetables and shaved parmesan

Fish of the day $35

Although the food served at Rae’s restaurant is consistently good. There is a clear disrespect for patrons. Such a pity given the calibre of the chefs!